![]() But all in all I count it promissing enough to go for custom arduino (or at lest a breakout board first), which will the replace the cutted down original one and will use the z-axis conductive tape. So I guess I possibly riuned some contacts by soldering temperature, or mechanicly while several dis-/reassambling or simply broke some of the ribbon cables. It BASICLY worked, which means I got some (but not all) keystrokes, but never random or false respond. The rest was a little sketch (with the help of the arduino forum and sisam), to go for a test run. I drilled a little hole in the top of the case to get the reset switch pressed with the bended paper clip Trick.Īs you can see, I cutted of all parts of the PCB to have only the contact pads for the wiring left. The other side is ever more difficult and I daaditionally needed to remove the reset switch from the teensy and wire it to the top, since I would otherwise had press it with most of the keyboard strokes, which pressed the switch underneath. Wiring is a bit ugly, but I thought it'll do for fisrt run. Left the teensy inside the keyboard, right the orignal space with the Palm stand for comparison.Īnd here is one opend from the backside (I had to cut of half of the little plastic nob on which that part rests on the table). To make space for that, I removed the all parts that make the Palm stand and made some holes to fit the wires and connector. (basicly because I got the information it's able to appear as a HID (USB Keyboard). So I thougt to give the teensy I had in stock a run. There is also the idea of having alle pins routed to standard plug connectors (like the ones at the arduino shields), most likely as option for debugging and not fitting inside the housing. Most likely will give too little space for routing. This would give most space for routing the PCB, I'd think.Ĭ) mostly ike B) but placing the atmega on the backside of the PCB fitting inside the spare gap in the green marked area. Would require cutting a hole into the case where the atmega will rest in. Will need to track 2 paths for the populating, but simple enough since it's just dropping a part.ī) place the little SMD parts, the thinkpad socket and the USB socket inside the red area and the atmeag on the other side of the PCB. This would mean to place the according socket for those keyboards additionally onto the board, what will result in some space issues.Ī) place all components for the palm keyboard inside the red area and the thinpad socket on the other side of the PCB and leave it unpopulated for the palm use. ![]() I'm currently thinking of double using this PCB for an USB -thinkpad keyboard adaptor, too. The foodprint of the U1 is 7mm square for the housing, which is the sice of the QFN foodprint of the atmega32u4 chip, which is my faveroed chip for this poject because it has USB on board and is arduino compatible, so it could be used as mc itself or could be flashed with the arduino bootloader. There is a max of 3.5 mm in hight in the middle area, slping down to 2.5mm to both sides (to upperpart is what goes on top of the board. ![]() The red marked area is where the components where paleced/ could be placed. ![]() The reason is the backside is lying nearly compleedly tight to the plastic housing with the only exeption beeing the part in the green marked area, where aspace of about 2mm is beneth the board. (exact measurements and scan to follow).Īnd here the same with the top cover flipped: I removed all components from the original PCB to get a good scan from it and to find out wher and how much space is there to place components there.
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